Fieldwork in Ghana
In front of the Pink hostel, there was Stephan, a Ghanaian taxi driver that also worked as a travel guide. He spoke a little Dutch because he had worked with KLM pilots and asked me if he could take me around the city. I thought that was a great start, to see the city with a local. We had a great day and we had a ‘biertje’ (Dutch for beer, a word he knew very well) at Green Grass pub, a very nice and local place with great food. I told him I wasn’t sure about the hostel so he drove me to different hostels to see if there was one I would like better. I ended up at hostel ‘somewhere nice’ and the rest is history.. for some reason I couldn’t leave that place so it ended up being my home for three months.
At the hostel, I found out that Accra is seen as a not so nice place for travelers. Almost every traveler lands here stays here maybe one day or two and leaves as soon as they can. I really got to appreciate Accra and I actually love the city. So here are my tips to love it too:
Places to stay
Places to chop
Ghanaians say ‘chop’ for eating. What’d you chopping? There are many great places to get food. In Kokomlemle, and in more local neighborhoods, locals set up their chop stands at around 5 in the afternoon and prepare you the best local dishes. These dishes is a matter of taste though.. I am quite a picky eater so that was a little problem sometimes but you can get really good fu fu (made from cassave) accompanied with groundnut soup, fried yams, jollof rice (rice cooked in a tomato/onion/spicy spices sauce) and waayke (rice with beans) with shito (sauce made of fish oil, dried fish, tomatoes, garlic and different spices). All foods are very spicy in Dutch terms. I am happy I like spicy food.
If you don’t want to eat on the streets and want to be served I have two recommendations of local restaurants that have the best foods for cheap. At Green Grass pub in neighborhood Nima where Stephan took me you can get very good rice with barbecued chicken or tilapia. In neighborhood Osu (downtown) there is an Ivorian restaurant called Chez Clarisse where I could be found at least once a week. Their tilapia is the best I have ever had in the world. They prepare it with hot sauce, grilled onions, and tomato and you can choose to have rice, couscous, fried plantain or fried yam with it. YUMMY!
Burgers, pizza and brownies
If you are vegetarian/vegan it is quite difficult to find good food in Accra. There is one vegan restaurant along the coast with a good range of healthy food. It’s called Asaase Pa. And at restaurants you will always find some veggie options.
Places to go out
Best places in Osu
To go party, Osu is the best place to go. Republic is a very popular café with great live music and DJ’s that play Afropop like Shatte Wale and Stonebwoy. On Wednesdays, they have a karaoke night. Republic is popular by both Ghanaians and travelers/expats. Not far from Republic there is Firefly Lounge where you can dance the night away. Also not far from these two places there is Container, as the name says, it’s a container and it’s a great place to have a drink on the street.
Everybody’s gotta love Accra!!